South Carolina, Charleston and Hilton Head Island

 North Carolina was a pretty long stretch of coast.  Took us some six days to get through it not counting time lost from waiting out the storm and going up the wrong creek by the Marine training ground.  We were happy to get to South Carolina though I must confess it looked much like North Carolina at first.
   We sailed in to Charleston Harbor in the evening and passed close by Ft Sumter, the site of beginning of the Civil war.  Charleston had an old vibe to it especially by American standards.  The harbor almost felt European.  We spent the night at anchor and headed south for Beaufort the next morning.
   Fighting a strong tidal current we fell short of Beaufort and wound up anchoring up the Bull River.  We had it all to ourselves and it was a memorable sunset.  I busted out my guitar for the first time on the trip and felt like I was really getting away. 

Sunset on the Bull River, had the whole thing to ourselves...

Charleston

 We cruised right through Beaufort, across Port Royal Sound and right by Hilton Head Island.  My crew was running short on time as he had to pack up his apartment in Manhattan.  We had some engine trouble by Daufuskie Island and decided to stay in Hilton Head Island for a month.  The crew departed after a few nights of watching dolphins surface inches from the gunwales.  They would wake us up in our sleep and run around in gangs.  There were even offspring - I understand it is a breeding ground for them and there are many tours for humans to see them up close.  Being a huge fan of these brilliant, intelligent beings I felt that if Hilton Head Island was good enough for them it was a good place for me too.  Exploring the beaches and forests of Hilton Head reminded me of Aspen, CO in terms of cleanliness.  The parks almost seem fake they are so pristine.

Leaving Charleston in our wake

Tucked in to a slip in Palmetto Bay Marina

Cetaceans at dusk

Last Launch of Space Shuttle Endeavour

Norfolk, VA to NC

 An aircraft carrier docked in Norfolk near the start of the ICW.

   We pulled in to Norfolk and got fuel at the mouth of the ICW.  Our first bridge opening was accompanied by a thunderstorm but things went well and we became pros at it after a couple of days.

Modern looking destroyer passing us at Norfolk

 Going through the Virginia cut was a breeze.  Went aground trying to get into an anchorage up a creek but a quick unfurling of the jib and rogue gust blew us free.  We had to sail out late in the dark to get to a sheltered anchorage in Coinjock bay.
   Next day I was contemplating crossing Albemarle Sound during a small craft advisory.  While a Pearson 10M is a pretty seaworthy vessel I prefer to avoid rough passages whenever possible.  We wound up running for cover around noon on the heels of a major storm.  Was a good thing we did not attempt Albemarle sound as deadly tornadoes were breaking out and Tornado warnings were in effect all around us.  We wound up spending two nights up Broad Creek before things died down and we were ready to chance the sound.  The crew grew restless but fortunately good food, movies and drink helped us sit out the storm.  I lost my well traveled fedora the next morning as we entered Albemarle Sound.  Fortunately that was all and aside from some nasty chop we made it to the Alligator river with no further issues.

Virginia Cut

 
   Pamlico Sound was beautiful and if my crew had not been pressed for time I would have liked to have visited Ocracoke Island.  We pressed on to Beaufort, NC where my crew went ashore for some Southern cuisine and frosty beers.  Beaufort lays claim to an archaeological dig site for the Queen Anne's Revenge, Blackbeard's infamous ship.  Am not sure how valid the claim is as I did not visit the museum.

Replica ship in Beaufort

Inlets typical of NC ICW

  I can see why Blackbeard made NC his stomping grounds as its a gorgeous network of islands, sounds and inlets.  Loads of dolphins played in the shallows while squadrons of pelicans strafed overhead.  I was again tempted to tarry awhile, the people seemed warm and the entire vibe was just wholesome.  Will have to return to NC at some point.
  The only bump in the road was a wrong turn sending us a few hours up a creek into Marine training grounds - heard lots of gunfire and saw a lot of military boats before we noticed we had gone off course.  Unfortunately a shoal lay on the way back to the main channel which could only be crossed at high tide so we spent the night swimming and McGyvering up a shade rack for the cockpit.  By now the sun was far more intense than the pasty frozen North we had left just a short while ago.

 Always favor the point of sail that provides the most shade...

 Sunrises on Long Island Sound

 "Flying" down the East River at nearly 12 knots - got to love the tide.

The thrill of sailing past Liberty in ones own hull

Always wanted to leave the Big Apple in my wake!

Fibonacci the day I bought her on a moor

Atlantic Highlands in Autumn

 I found Fibonacci, a Pearson 10M for sale in Fairfield, CT.  I purchased it in August 2010 and moved aboard almost immediately.  I lived on a moor through Oct '10 and then began the long journey South.  I sailed through Long Island Sound and down the East River past NYC quite smoothly.  Spent a night anchored under the Verazzano bridge in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn.  Spent a couple weeks in Atlantic Highlands, NJ awaiting a weather window to attempt the Jersey Shore.  Sailed through the night to Absecon inlet and spent a night at trump Marina in Atlantic City, NJ.

Inside the cabin

 A new crew joined me there and we continued South to Cape May.  At night while I was resting the inexperienced crew sailed in to close to shore just past Ocean City and we wound up hard aground for a night waiting for the tide.  Fortunately it was calm.  I spent the winter in Cape May, NJ - well the boat did I went down to Miami to escape the cold.  Come April I returned to Cape May to continue the voyage South.  Was joined by a new crew - a military vet.
   We set sail from Cape May on April 19th up Delaware Bay and through the C&D canal.  Unfortunately the tide was against us in the canal so we didn't get through till around midnight.  We anchored in Veazy Cove and continued to Annapolis the next morning.  Anchored just off the Naval academy.
   Leaving Annapolis the weather became glassy calm.  I decided to try to make hay while the sun shone and run through the night to Norfolk.  Forecast was clear when I turned in around midnight.  Was awoken by the sound of halyards slapping the mast and went up on deck to relieve the night watch.  To my horror a squal was kicking up and a 6 foot chop had waves breaking on deck.  The nearest shelter was Gwynn island and Deltaville, VA both of which looked tricky on the charts so I decided to wait for things to calm down before heading in.  Some 6 hours of violent rocking and rolling ensued.  Turns out a rope had wrapped itself round the inboard propeller so we had to call in a tow to Deltaville.  I dove under the boat and cut the rope loose - looked like an old anchor rhode.
   Two days later we hit Norfolk, VA.  On our way in we saw our first dolphins and a nuclear submarine being escorted out by the Coast Guard.  There was also an aircraft carrier docked there which was impressive to behold. 

My Klepper Aerius II folding kayak

Dinghying ashore to get groceries

Crew ascends the mast to install radar reflector and flag halyard

Sunset at Black Rock Harbor, LIS

Boat just before spring launch in Cape May, NJ

Cape May to Hilton Head Island

Sunset in the Chesapeake Bay near mouth of the Potomac

 Welcome to my blog.  I will record here the voyages of the Pearson 10M sloop, Fibonacci.  I purchased the boat in August 2010 in CT and have sailed her over a thousand miles. 

Charleston

The Fibonacci at anchor in Beaufort, NC

Dolphins by Hilton Head Island

Charleston